Best Paris Strolls

Stroll 23: Batignolles

Stroll 23 Batignolles, Albert Andre, "Place des Batignolles Paris 1893"

Quick Description:  Charming, hip, non-touristy area, 19th century village ambience, but with lots of modern shopping, varied dining options,  plus new Eco District with giant park and futuristic housing development. 

Where: Right Bank, northwestern Paris, between Montmartre and Parc Monceau.

Start at Place de Clichy, outside Metro station Place de Clichy (#2, #13 lines).  End at the intersection of Avenue de Clichy and Rue Brochant, outside Metro station Brochant (#13 line). 

Duration: 1 hr walk, @2 hrs with browsing shops and enjoying the old park, add 30-90 min for exploring the new Eco District park.  One Early Departure Option. 

Best Days: Tues – Sat (Thurs – Sat probably optimal)

Best Start Time: 10:30am – Noon 

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Connects: by quick Metro rides to Stroll 22 (Parc Monceau & Vicinity), or Stroll 24 (Montmartre), or Stroll 25 (Pigalle aka SOPI), or the standalone site, Musee Jacquemart-Andre.  

Past and Present:  If you want to see a neighborhood that Parisians have preserved for themselves, without tourists, visit Batignolles.  The majority of the community still has the look and feel of the 19th century village it once was, with picturesque streets, a parish church and a family-friendly park all from that era.  But it also has a hip vibe and many new boutiques and innovative restaurants, as well as lively nightlife spots, appealing to the large population of “bourgeois bohemians” aka “Bobos,” living here.  Beyond this older area, Batignolles is also now a test ground for Paris’s future. In the last decade, the rail yards and empty land at the community’s western end have been transformed into the Clichy-Batignolles Eco District. It consists of a new residential community of dozens of futuristic hi-rise apartment buildings, office buildings and hotels, with retail outlets, cafes and other businesses at ground level, surrounding a huge and varied park, the Parc Clichy-Batignolles-Martin Luther King.  Other features of the Eco District include a new Metro and RER station, and roadways that lead west to the neighboring Clichy community where a giant new justice center has been constructed.  The scope of the project is truly impressive.  What is more, every aspect of the buildings and park – including power, water, garbage collection, landscaping, animal habitats and more – is designed to respect and preserve the environment.  The stroll, which begins at historic Place de Clichy, first guides you through the heart of the original community, to the church, the old park and the shopping and dining options.  It then affords you a vista of the new community and park, and a chance to explore them at length if you choose.  It’s a trip to the real Paris – of yesterday, today and tomorrow.         

Attractions (in order):

  • Place de Clichy:  Historic, lively crossroads, meeting place of four arrondissements, site of famous battle. 
  • Monument to Marechal de Moncey:  The statue in the center of the roundabout honors Bon-Adrien Jeannot de Moncey (1754-1842), a Marshal of the Empire of Napoleon, who in 1814 led French volunteer forces in battle here to prevent the invasion of Paris by Russian troops of the Allied Coalition.    
  • Rue des Dames: From Rue Biot to Rue des Batignolles.  “Street of the Dames” dates from the early Renaissance and is named for the nuns of the old Abbey of Montmartre, who owned the land here.     
  • Shops of Rue des Dames:
    • Blou: #20 Rue des Dames.  Swedish brands of contemporary home goods, décor, lighting and furniture.  Two other, larger stores at 97 and 99 Rue Legendre, also in Batignolles.  Tues-Fri 11am-2pm, 3-7:30pm, Sat 11am-7:30pm. 
    • Atelier Haute Perche: #29 Rue des Dames. Original design women’s costume jewelry.  Tues-Sat opens 11am, varied closing hours 4-6pm.   
    • bien bien#35 Rue des Dames.  Men’s clothing and footwear.  Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.
    • Miss Sugar Cane:  #43 Rue des Dames.  Women’s vintage clothing and accessories.  Tues-Sat 12:30pm-7:30pm.
  • Shops of Rue des Batignolles:
    • Les Petits Rafineurs: #39 Rue des Batignolles.  Children’s toys, games and books.  Tues-Fri 11am-7:30pm, Sat 11am-7pm. 
    • Petit Antiquites: #38 Rue des Batignolles.  Antiques.  Mon and Wed-Sat 10:30am-2pm, 3-7:30pm. 
    • Birdy:  #47 Rue des Batignolles.  Women’s jewelry and accessories.  Mon 12:30-7pm.  Tues-Sat 10:30am-7pm.
    • Eiden Bijoux: #44 Rue des Batignolles.  Original design women’s costume jewelry.  Mon 12:30-7pm, Tues-Sat 10:30am-7pm, Sun 11am-6pm.
  • Place de Dr. Felix Lobligeois: Road and plaza at the end of Rue des Batignolles, in front of the Church of Sainte-Marie des Batignolles, that is named for a prominent radiologist and city council member.  It functions as the town square of the Batignolles community. 
  • Church of Sainte-Marie des Batignolles: #77 Place du Dr. Felix Lobligeois.  Catholic church in the Neo-Classic style, begun in 1828 during the Bourbon Restoration and completed in 1851.  Simple interior features a painted ceiling and a carved altar.  Free admission, but check for access. 
  • Shops of Rue Legendre:
    • Balibaris: #65 Rue Legendre.  Women’s and men’s clothing.  Mon-Fri 10am-7:30pm, Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 11am-7pm.
    • Arsene et les pipelettes:  #65 Rue Legendre.  Children’s clothing.  Mon 2:30-7:30pm, Tues-Thurs 11am-2pm, 3-7:30pm, Sat-Sun 10:30am-7:30pm.
    • Des Petits Hauts:  Women’s clothing and accessories.  Mon 2-7:30pm, Tues-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm.
    • Oh My Cream!: #67 Rue Legendre.  Cosmetics.  Daily 11am-7:30pm.
    • Le Petit Mendigote: #80 Rue Legendre. Women’s clothing and footwear.  Mon 1-7pm, Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.  
    • Ursul Paris: #82 Rue Legendre.  Jewelry with minimalist, unisex designs.  Tues-Sat 11am-7:30pm.
    • Cyrillus: #73 Rue Legendre.  Clothing for children and infants.  Mon 2-7:30pm, Tues-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm.
    • Soeur: #75 Rue Legendre.  Women’s clothing and accessories with Asian inspiration.  Mon 11am-7pm, Tues-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm. 
    • French Touche: 90 Rue Legendre.  Gift Shop emphasizing home goods and décor items.  Thurs-Sat 11am-7:30pm
    • Le Pestacle de Maelou: #92 Rue Legendre.  Home décor for infants.  Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 3-7pm, Sat 11am-7:30pm.
    • Yse Paris: #75 Rue Legendre.  Lingerie.  Mon 1-7pm, Tues-Sat 11am-7:30pm.
    • Leon & Harper:  #77 Rue Legendre.  Women’s clothing.  Tues 1-7pm, Wed-Thurs 11am-7:30pm, Fri-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm.
    • Marie Sixtine –
      Batignolles:  #77bis Rue Legendre.  Women’s clothing.  Sun-Thurs 11am-7pm, Fri-Sat 11am-7:30pm.
    • Sessun – Legendre: #98 Rue Legendre. Women’s clothing.  Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 11am-7pm.
  • Shops of Rue Nollet and Rue des Moines:
    • Desordre Urbain: #96 Rue Nollet.  Women’s clothing, jewelry, bags, footwear, and home décor items.  Tues-Sat 11:30am-7:30pm.
    • Douxdimanche: #15 Rue desMoines. Women’s cashmere clothing.  Mon 2-6pm, Tues-Sat 10:30am-7pm.
    • Noa: #16 Rue des Moines.  Women’s clothing.  Tues Noon-7pm, Wed-Sat 11:30-7pm.
  • Square des Batignolles:  Park installed in 1862, designed by Charles Adolphe Alphand in the garden style favored by the Second Empire.  Features include mature trees, grass areas, duck pond, various carved statues, children’s playground, carousel, boules pitch, glass walled gazebo, quaint concession stand with ice cream and crepes.  Mon-Fri 8am-7:30pm, Sat 9am-7:30pm, Sun 9am-5:45pm, free
  • Parc Clichy-Batignolles-Martin Luther King:  Main entries at eastern end along Rue Cardinet between Rue Truffaut and Rue Lemercier.  Multiple entries on other sides.  Park that is part of the Clichy-Batignolles Eco District.  Amenities include walkways, gardens, ponds, wildlife habitats, a skate park, boules pitch, soccer field, basketball courts, children’s playgrounds and public toilets.  The property is crossed by an operational railway line at grade used only for civil defense and emergencies.  A public covered deck with chairs overlooks the rail line.  Green energy aspects of the park include solar panels to generate electricity and wind turbines for rain water harvesting.  Parts of the park are still being completed.  Mon-Fri 7am-7:30pm, Sat 8am-7:30pm, Sun 8am-5:45pm, free.
  • Clichy-Batignolles Eco District:  Massive project built on the site of the SNCF railyard at the north/west end of the Batignolles neighborhood and extending to a new justice center at the Peripherique in the commune of Clichy-Hautes de Seine.  The project consists of new communities of modern glass and steel hi-rise apartment and office buildings and hotels with innovative designs and eco-friendly mechanics, surrounding the new Parc Clichy-Batignolles-Martin Luther King, along with a new Metro and RER station at Pont Cardinet.    
  • Cite des Fleurs: Entry from Avenue de Clichy at Rue Guy Moquet.  Picturesque 19th century pedestrian way bordered by elegant mansions and their gardens.

Dining Suggestions (in order): 

  • Le Wepler: #14 Place de Clichy.  Big brasserie, a long-time area favorite.  French cuisine, oysters, seafood towers, breakfast, full bar.  Airy room with high ceilings and midcentury modern décor, plentiful outdoor seating, a sidewalk oyster bar.  Daily 7:30am-Midnight.  Wide range of dishes and prices to suit most tastes and budgets.   
  • Strobi: #12 Rue Biot.  French cuisine in small plates with emphasis on fresh vegetables, vegan options.  Cozy, eclectically decorated room.  Daily Noon-2:30pm, 7-11pm.  Plates @€8-14
  • Biotiful Batignolles: #18 Rue Biot.  Wine bar serving pizza made with organic dough and ingredients, plus a short selection of appetizers.  Tues-Sat Noon-2:30pm, 6pm-Midnight.  Appetizers @€9-12, pizzas @€4-19. 
  • Les Caves Populaires: 22 Rue des Dames.   Wine bar with neighborhood feel and generally young crowd.  Simple dishes such as croques and charcuterie and cheese boards.  Casual room verging on grunge look.  Bar and table seating.  Despite daytime hours it is most popular as a happy hour and nightlife spot and offers occasional live music.  Mon-Sat 8:30am-2am, Sat 11am-2am. Moderate prices.    
  • L’Ebiniste du Vin: #82 Rue Boursault, near the Church of Sainte-Marie des Batignolles.  Wine cave with large selection, plus charcuterie, cheese and vegetable boards and some other dishes.  Whitewashed stone walled room with simple modern furnishings. Tues-Sat 2pm-2am.  Food items @€9-23.
  • Ristorante Cucuzza: #14 Rue des Moines, between Rue Nollet and Rue Truffaut, near Square des Batignolles park.  Pizza restaurant, with some appetizers and other dishes.  Noon-2:30pm, 7:30-10:30pm.  Pizzas €10-18.   
  • Comme Chez Maman:  #5 Rue des Moines, between Rue Truffaut and Place Charles Fillion, near Square des Batignolles park. French cuisine with new twists.  Retro room, outdoor seating.  Daily Noon-2:30pm, 7:30-11pm.   Prix fixe lunch @€25E 3 courses.  Appetizers @€9-21, Mains @€26-36
  • Café Dose Paris – Batignolles:  #82 Place du Dr. Felix Lobligeois, at convergence with Rue des Moines and Place Charles Fillion, at the back of the church and opposite Square des Batignolles park.  Coffee shop that offers big cups made with the pour over method, as well as espresso drinks, plus pastries, sandwiches and salads.  Casual space with tables and counter seating, and outdoor seating facing the park.  Daily 8:30am-7pm.  Moderate prices. 
  • Gaston: #11 Rue Brochant, at Rue Truffaut.  Meat-centric French cuisine (the restaurant calls itself “The Butcher of Batignolles”).  Traditional room with modern touches, outdoor seating.  Daily Noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm.  Mains @€17-28.  Mon-Fri lunch prix fixe@€20-25.
  • Coretta: 151 bis Rue Cardinet, adjacent to an entry to Parc Clichy-Batignolles-Martin Luther King.  French cuisine that emphasizes fresh produce and innovative combinations.  Located on the ground floor of one of the new hi-rise buildings, the restaurant has a modern, glass walled room, plus outdoor seating on a broad new plaza with trees.  Open Tues-Sat Noon-Midnight, lunch service Noon-2pm, dinner 7:30-10pm.  Plates to share @€12-17, Appetizers @€11-15, Mains @€28-32, Desserts and cheese plate @€10-12. 

Ready to stroll?
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Stroll Map

Ready to stroll?
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